Old Compton Street, Berwick Street Market, the alleys and courts, the surviving sex shops and music venues alongside the restaurants and bars. The character of Soho has changed but the bones are still there.

Best time: lunchtime for the workers. Late evening for the nightlife. Berwick Street Market on weekday mornings.

Look for: the collision of demographics that only Soho produces. The remnants of old Soho alongside the new.